Legends Tech Tips

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SEALED ENGINES
Attention all INEX members, 
The question has arisen, Is it OK to remove the seals on a 1250 sealed engine and convert it back to a 1200 un-sealed engine ? 
The official position that INEX has taken is as follows: The only engines that can be used in INEX sanctioned events are the 1200 (un-sealed), 1219 (sealed) and the 1250 (sealed).
The 1200 must meet the rules as outlined in the current rulebook. The 1219 must remain sealed as a 1219. However, you can restore the 1219 back to a 1200 that meets the rules as outlined in the current rulebook (this engine will have a 1200 serial number). The 1250 must remain sealed and may not be restored to a 1200 (this engine will have a serial number with a P503E prefix). 
The 1250 engine with the 1250 serial number can only be raced as a sealed engine.
Scott Reinhardt (INEX National Tech Director)

12/15/01 To Shave Or Not To Shave?
Changes in this years rules for Legends Cars allow teams to shave tires. There is no question about it. SHAVE YOUR TIRES!!! Shaving the tires accomplishes a number of different things for you. Primarily, it allows you to shave camber directly into the tread of the tire. Each corner of the car should have the camber shaved appropriately for it's location on the car. Our testing has shown considerable improvements in lap times by doing this. Shaving also can give you to get the exact stagger that you are looking for. The shaved tread is also thinner, which gives the car a noticeably less squirmy feel and reduces tread "chunking", where large chunks of tread break off. With these improvements, a properly set up chassis can benefit with better, more even tires wear after shaving. Tire shaving can also be a money saver for the cost conscious team. Old, hard tires can be "revitalized" by shaving them. The outer, harder rubber is removed which exposes the fresher, more pliant rubber underneath. The tires won't perform like a new set, but they make great practice tires and spares.

Keep in mind that the first few laps after shaving the tires will be a little slippery, new or used, so make sure to scrub them in good before running a race on them. We definitely recommend that you find a qualified person to give your tires a properly cambered shave. 

11/10/01 Exhaust Tricks
For those of you who run tracks that allow you to use the Borla header with either the Borla muffler or the open collector, always run the open Borla collector if possible. You will definitely make more horsepower and torque with this setup. However, if you have been running with the muffler and move to the open collector, you will need to go up one jet size on your main jets to realize your maximum power with the collector installed. 

For those of you that run smaller short tracks with slow, tight corners , you will see some benefits by going to a header available from your Legends Dealer. This header will pick up the bottom end tremendously. We were pretty surprised at the difference this header made at the bottom-mid range. We saw a gain of 6 horse power and 6 foot pounds of torque at 6500 rpms with this header and the Supertrapp muffler installed, all sold by Legends Dealers . The header is a silver painted mild steel header with a open collector that is held on by 4 springs. 

Teams who switch tracks often could really benefit by keeping both exhaust setups in the trailer so that you can put the best goodies on your car for the given track you are on. 

11/20/01 Fuel For Legends Cars
Here at Redline we try to test everything we can to make sure we are getting the best performance out of the Legends engines. We have tested most racing fuels that are available and have not found much difference in performance when running straight racing fuel. However we have realized significant gains when mixing the racing fuels we have tested with 93 octane pump gas. The burn rate of straight racing fuel is too slow. Mixing with 93 octant pump gas speeds up the burn rate and picks up the horsepower and torque all the way up the power band. Usually a 50/50 mix is a good starting point. 

11/20/01 Air filters for Legends Cars:
Here at Redline we have found that the K&N dual air filters are far superior to any other filters we have dyno'd. With these filters, horsepower and torque are increased and are smoother all the way up the curve. They also take up less room than the pod style filter and are cheaper. 

12/04/01 Shock Adjuster Affixing -
With regard to shock adjusters, most people opt to keep the adjusters in place by taping up the adjuster to stop the adjuster from moving in use! After taping of my shock's forever, I saw a neat idea using a jubilee clip (hose clips) to do the same job as the tape. they are easy to fit and very easy to use and are far quicker than tape between races. 

Fitting of hose clip - remove threaded end of shock for the chassis /axle and slip the hose clip (of the correct size) over the threads until it sits below the adjuster and then just tighten it up with a screwdriver, you will find that the worm-drive part of the hose clip will be the only part that sits against the adjuster. still works like this 

When it's time for adjustments to your set up all you need is a screwdriver, just slacken the hose clip and let it fall (can only go to the bolt that's holding the shock onto the car) then adjust the shock up or down as desired and then when your finished lift up the hose-clip until it sits against the adjuster as above and tighten it up. (no more sticky fingers or looking for tape). 

This process makes adjustment far easier and quicker. Many drivers are now using the same type of jubilee clips (hose-clips) on their cars. 

08/11/01 Shock Breakdown - With the changeover to Bilstein shock absorbers, several new parameters were added to the mix. In addition to adjusting the setup and spring package of the car, a new checklist item was added to our weekly "nutting and bolting" routine.

The Bilstein shocks have a top which screws onto the shaft and is held in place by a lock nut. The original understanding that these tops would never come off by themselves, but are built such that they can be replaced or removed in order to install different types of coilover adapter kits.

This understanding is incorrect! You may find the shaft rotates out of the shock head. This will leave the shock head only connected to the upper mount point, and the body of the shock to hang uselessly from the chassis. If you find this has happened and no damage has occurred, simply screw the shock head back onto the shaft, locking it in place with red Locktite. You should summarily check the shocks on your cars, we found at several other shock shaft's which had begun to rotate.

As a precautionary measure, check the tightness of your shock heads every week, along with your regular nutting and bolting of the car. Along with keeping your setup consistent, it could save your car someday.

8/13/01 Shock Mounting - Mounting rear shocks upside down will not alter the performance of the shock. It will, however, allow you to make changes to your car's setup without having to crawl under the car. You will simply jack the car up in the rear, and make your adjustment. Remember to tape your shocks or use the above mentioned clamp to hold the coilover in place after any update so the setup does not change.

8/13/01 Engine Popping - After trying new coils, ignitor box, pickup coil, spark plugs, carb rebuilds, etc. one racer tracked it down to failing alternator. Apparently the diode was failing, causing internal short, dropping system voltage to low levels which hurt coil saturation and caused the popping missing. Because the diode breakdown was intermittent, miss was intermittent. Easy way to check if this is your problem is to disconnect alternator and run car on the track. If no miss, then you are second racer having been plagued by this weird failure.

8/23/01 Engine Popping - Motor was popping at low rpm coming off the turn. After trying everything in the above post, we took the carbs off and cleaned them and replaced the fuel filter.

8/30/01 Engine Popping - We have also found that if the headers are not tightened allowing for air to be drawn in around the stainless ring-gasket in the exhaust port, that popping will happen. Tighten or replace the gaskets.

9/01/01 Steps To Installing Red Box
* Remove existing rotor button and install black rotor button using hex-head bolt. Install blue pickup coil using smaller hex bolts and spacers (spacers go on the inside and attach pickup coil to block.
* Line the "35 degree" mark on the blue pickup with the split in the engine case.
* Hook the pickup coil to the red box, but don't hook the other parts of the red box up. All that should be hooked up to the box is the ignition wire and ground, and the wiring harness that goes from the box to the pickup coil.
* Flip your ignition switch on - you will see the red diode on the box go on and off. Move the rotor button around (bump the starter) until the "1-4" is at the 2 o'clock position. Rotate the crank by hand ( a number of ways to do this, I use a big screwdriver though the universal on the drive-shaft) until the "1-4" mark lines up with the vertical mark on the pickup coil (the mark I mentioned earlier to line up with the split in the cases) - the red diode on the box should light up when these two marks are aligned. If the light doesn't come on, adjust the pickup and try it again.
* Once this is complete, rotate the engine until the "2-3" mark is in the in the 2 o'clock position and then repeat the previous instructions.
Once both marks are aligned, the coil is set properly and you can go about permanently affixing the red box. Set the timing by moving the degree marks on the side of the coil to line up with the horizontal split in the case. Many engine builder/tuners set the advance to 38 degrees
 
Good luck. I think you will be pleased with the box unless you run XJ coils. If you do, get some FJ coils or the new dyna coils.

9/01/01 Is It Loose or Tight - It's not such a dumb question. Have you ever had a day when the car was loose, and no matter how much you tightened it, it was still kicking loose of the corner? This is called "pushing loose". The car is actually so tight in and through the middle of the turn, that when the front end bites, the rear kicks around and appears loose. Any time you tighten a car and go out to find it still as loose, or sometimes even MORE loose, come in and return car to previous settings, and then try taking 1/4 or maybe 1/2 turn of wedge out of the LR. As you are now mounting your shocks inverted, this won't take but a second.

 

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